Last July, the annual Terra Olivo Mediterranean International Olive Oil Competition took place in Israel for the first time, attracting olive oil producers from around the globe, to Jerusalem. Israel produces less than 10,000 of the three million tons of olive oil produced worldwide each year, yet Israel’s olive oil is internationally acclaimed. At a recent contest in Greece, first place for varietal oil made from Koroneiki olives was awarded to olives grown on the Golan Heights by Eretz Gshur. Meanwhile, farmers all over the globe are growing Barnea and other olive varieties that were developed in Israel.
Some 90 percent of the olive oil produced in Israel is graded extra virgin – meaning it is not processed, contains no additives, and has less then 0.8 % acidity. In comparison, less than half of that produced in Spain, which is the source of almost half of the world’s olive oil, is extra virgin.
Prof. Shimon Lavee, a professor emeritus of horticulture at the Faculty of Agriculture of the Hebrew University of Jerusalem and the Volcani Center who is respected for his groundbreaking research on olive trees, provides a logical explanation for this statistic. Traditionally, in the Land of Israel, olive oil was produced domestically, not on an industrial scale and was not processed in any way.
This led Israeli society to think of olive oil as a natural product. When the Israeli olive oil industry began to develop a few decades ago, it adopted the same principles. The budding industry’s aspiration for excellence influenced the small traditional producers, providing them with the knowledge, skills, and motivation to improve their olive oil. As a result, excellent extra virgin olive oil is being made in Israel.
That said, Lavee notes that acidity, one of the main factors in classifying olive oil as virgin or extra virgin, can be corrected through processing, also producing very good olive oil. Some people, including some in Israel, prefer such oil because it has a less dominant taste. Another selling point is that olive oil is the only type of oil produced in Israel; all the others are imported.
Today, if a container of olive oil has a seal from the Israel Olive Oil Board on its label, the buyer can assume it is good quality. The process of producing olive oil has improved tremendously since the ancient olive presses that dot the country were in use, correlating with an improvement in taste.
“The olive is a difficult crop, one of the most difficult to grow. It does not require much labor, but does require more professionalism than other crops,” Lavee notes.
Three Generations of Farmers
The Birger family of Moshav Kfar Kisch, which lies at the foot of Mount Tabor, is an example of how olive oil production has changed in Israel since the state was established.
Eitam Birger, a third-generation olive grower and a second-generation certified olive oil taster, relates that his grandfather immigrated to Israel from Europe and settled at Kfar Kisch in 1954. Like most moshav residents at the time, he operated a small farm with many different products, including olive oil from Souri olive trees.
The climate of Kfar Kisch is suited to both almonds and olives. This led Birger’s father Reuven to become an expert in teaching farmers how to grow them and traveled around the world to do so. Reuven studied at the Hebrew University’s Faculty of Agriculture in Rehovot and, inspired by Prof. Lavee’s research, also began experimenting with growing different types of olive and almond trees on his farm.
“We did this as an agricultural experiment to increase the yield, but discovered that the olives of each variety have their own characteristics. Over time, we decided to add four varieties to our orchards: Barnea, Picholine, Leccino, and Picual,” Birger recalls.
Birger went to high school at the Kadoorie agriculture school. He knew that good business skills also were vital to operating a farm, and so earned a BA in economics. At the same time, he took a series of courses offered by the International Olive Council, in Spain, and became a certified olive oil taster – one of less than a dozen in Israel.
Today the family grows olives, grapes, and almonds at Hacienda Birger and produces Shiraz and Merlot wines, as well as olive oil. They use the fruit of their 75 acres of olive orchards to produce five varietal olive oils as well as a house blend. One of them won first place in the Terra Olivo annual international olive oil competition in July. After tasting 189 extra virgin olive oils from 14 countries, the judges declared Hacienda Birger’s Picholine olive oil the best Israeli extra virgin olive oil. Produced from a type of olive that originates in southern France, it has adapted well to the conditions in Israel.
“We won because we focus on agriculture and proper storage,” Birger says modestly. “We know how and when to harvest olives so they will give the best results in both the quantity of oil and taste.”
If stored properly, olive oil can be used for two years from the time of harvest, Birger explains. He recommends storing it below 28 degrees, but not in a refrigerator, and minimizing contact with oxygen and light by keeping it in a tightly sealed container made from an opaque material.
“Olive oil goes bad over time and this is discernible in its taste, however, there is no risk of fatal diseases with olive oil,” Lavee notes.
In any case, the Terra Olivo judges are not the only ones to appreciate Hacienda Birger’s olive oils. They also are popular in the kitchen of Israeli President Shimon Peres, who often gives them as gifts. They also can be acquired at selected health-food stores throughout Israel.
Most of the farm’s oil and other products are sold at the visitors center at Kfar Kisch. The Birgers are among the moshav residents who joined together to operate a center where the public can learn about olive oil, wine, sheep’s milk cheeses, and other items produced at Kfar Kisch directly from the people who make them.
The center can arrange a variety of activities, workshops, and seminars in Hebrew or English as well as meals at the dairy’s restaurant. The visitors center is open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays and by appointment during the week for groups. Advance reservations are recommended.
Introducing Varietal Olive Oils
Eretz Gshur at Kibbutz Geshur on the Golan Heights is at the forefront of both olive oil production in Israel and in educating the Israeli public about olive oil. Founded by Hashomer Hatzair in 1976, it is one the few kibbutzim that supports itself from its dairy farm, vineyards and olive orchard output, according to Eretz Gshur marketing manager Ehud Soriano.
Geshur, a small kibbutz with about 50 members, was the first in Israel to plant olive trees in high-density hedgerows and use the overhead harvester for grapes to also harvest olives, Soriano says. This significantly shortens the time from when they are picked to pressed, improving the quality of the oil.
Kibbutz Geshur is a partner in the Golan Heights Winery, providing it with Muscat Canelli, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Founded in 1984 and owned by eight kibbutzim and moshavim, it is one of the first wineries in Israel to produce high-quality kosher wine.
“We decided to do the same thing for olives that the Golan Heights Winery is doing for Israeli wine: spearhead the production of high-quality olive oil by producing high-quality varietal olive oils so that consumers can taste the difference between each type of olive,” Soriano says. “This required a complete change of attitude. When we started, people said we were crazy, but it has proven successful. In the first year we sold 15 tons of olive oil, this year we sold 80 tons.”
Today Eretz Gshur grows Souri and Barnea olives as well as six European varieties of olives and produces both varietal oils and a blend that are sold at health-food stores throughout Israel. It consistently wins top honors for its oils in national and international contests.
Eretz Gshur works to raise awareness of the culinary and health benefits of olive oil through seminars and tasting sessions. Its visitors center, which is open from Sunday to Friday, reveals the entire production process, from planting the trees to bottling the oil. The center operates year round, but the best time to visit is during the harvest season (October-November) and when the olive press is active (November-December). Tours are available in English and reservations are recommended.
Interest in high-quality varietal olive oils is not limited to agricultural areas. “People are increasingly interested in quality and health and this is true all over the country,” Birger says.
In 2007, Hilla Wenkert and her brother Nimrod Salzmann opened Olia, a shop dedicated to olive oil, in the center of Tel Aviv. Their store carries half a dozen varietal olive oils as well as several blends and a wealth of related products, from tapenade, cracked and seasoned olives, and herb blends to ceramics and even olive oil soap. The olive oils all are made from olives grown in Israel.
“The entire Mediterranean diet is based on olive oil and every household in Israel has a bottle of it, but they don’t use a lot of it,” Soriano says. “However, when you let people make a choice, they will choose what they like. Interest and awareness has risen among the Israeli public. People are slowly learning about the flavors and quality of olive oil, just like they did with wine, and there is increasing demand for high-quality varietal olive oils.”
In July, the annual Terra Olivo Mediterranean International Olive Oil Competition took place in Israel for the first time, attracting olive oil producers from around the globe, to Jerusalem. Israel produces less than 10,000 of the three million tons of olive oil produced worldwide each year, yet Israel’s olive oil is internationally acclaimed. At a recent contest in Greece, first place for varietal oil made from Koroneiki olives was awarded to olives grown on the Golan Heights by Eretz Gshur. Meanwhile, farmers all over the globe are growing Barnea and other olive varieties that were developed in Israel.
Some 90 percent of the olive oil produced in Israel is graded extra virgin – meaning it is not processed, contains no additives, and has less then 0.8 % acidity. In comparison, less than half of that produced in Spain, which is the source of almost half of the world’s olive oil, is extra virgin.
Prof. Shimon Lavee, a professor emeritus of horticulture at the Faculty of Agriculture of the Hebrew University of Jerusalem and the Volcani Center who is respected for his groundbreaking research on olive trees, provides a logical explanation for this statistic. Traditionally, in the Land of Israel, olive oil was produced domestically, not on an industrial scale and was not processed in any way.
This led Israeli society to think of olive oil as a natural product. When the Israeli olive oil industry began to develop a few decades ago, it adopted the same principles. The budding industry’s aspiration for excellence influenced the small traditional producers, providing them with the knowledge, skills, and motivation to improve their olive oil. As a result, excellent extra virgin olive oil is being made in Israel.
That said, Lavee notes that acidity, one of the main factors in classifying olive oil as virgin or extra virgin, can be corrected through processing, also producing very good olive oil. Some people, including some in Israel, prefer such oil because it has a less dominant taste. Another selling point is that olive oil is the only type of oil produced in Israel; all the others are imported.
Today, if a container of olive oil has a seal from the Israel Olive Oil Board on its label, the buyer can assume it is good quality. The process of producing olive oil has improved tremendously since the ancient olive presses that dot the country were in use, correlating with an improvement in taste.
“The olive is a difficult crop, one of the most difficult to grow. It does not require much labor, but does require more professionalism than other crops,” Lavee notes.
Three Generations of Farmers
The Birger family of Moshav Kfar Kisch, which lies at the foot of Mount Tabor, is an example of how olive oil production has changed in Israel since the state was established.
Eitam Birger, a third-generation olive grower and a second-generation certified olive oil taster, relates that his grandfather immigrated to Israel from Europe and settled at Kfar Kisch in 1954. Like most moshav residents at the time, he operated a small farm with many different products, including olive oil from Souri olive trees.
The climate of Kfar Kisch is suited to both almonds and olives. This led Birger’s father Reuven to become an expert in teaching farmers how to grow them and traveled around the world to do so. Reuven studied at the Hebrew University’s Faculty of Agriculture in Rehovot and, inspired by Prof. Lavee’s research, also began experimenting with growing different types of olive and almond trees on his farm.
“We did this as an agricultural experiment to increase the yield, but discovered that the olives of each variety have their own characteristics. Over time, we decided to add four varieties to our orchards: Barnea, Picholine, Leccino, and Picual,” Birger recalls.
Birger went to high school at the Kadoorie agriculture school. He knew that good business skills also were vital to operating a farm, and so earned a BA in economics. At the same time, he took a series of courses offered by the International Olive Council, in Spain, and became a certified olive oil taster – one of less than a dozen in Israel.
Today the family grows olives, grapes, and almonds at Hacienda Birger and produces Shiraz and Merlot wines, as well as olive oil. They use the fruit of their 75 acres of olive orchards to produce five varietal olive oils as well as a house blend. One of them won first place in the Terra Olivo annual international olive oil competition in July. After tasting 189 extra virgin olive oils from 14 countries, the judges declared Hacienda Birger’s Picholine olive oil the best Israeli extra virgin olive oil. Produced from a type of olive that originates in southern France, it has adapted well to the conditions in Israel.
“We won because we focus on agriculture and proper storage,” Birger says modestly. “We know how and when to harvest olives so they will give the best results in both the quantity of oil and taste.”
If stored properly, olive oil can be used for two years from the time of harvest, Birger explains. He recommends storing it below 28 degrees, but not in a refrigerator, and minimizing contact with oxygen and light by keeping it in a tightly sealed container made from an opaque material.
“Olive oil goes bad over time and this is discernible in its taste, however, there is no risk of fatal diseases with olive oil,” Lavee notes.
In any case, the Terra Olivo judges are not the only ones to appreciate Hacienda Birger’s olive oils. They also are popular in the kitchen of Israeli President Shimon Peres, who often gives them as gifts. They also can be acquired at selected health-food stores throughout Israel.
Most of the farm’s oil and other products are sold at the visitors center at Kfar Kisch. The Birgers are among the moshav residents who joined together to operate a center where the public can learn about olive oil, wine, sheep’s milk cheeses, and other items produced at Kfar Kisch directly from the people who make them.
The center can arrange a variety of activities, workshops, and seminars in Hebrew or English as well as meals at the dairy’s restaurant. The visitors center is open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays and by appointment during the week for groups. Advance reservations are recommended.
Introducing Varietal Olive Oils
Eretz Gshur at Kibbutz Geshur on the Golan Heights is at the forefront of both olive oil production in Israel and in educating the Israeli public about olive oil. Founded by Hashomer Hatzair in 1976, it is one the few kibbutzim that supports itself from its dairy farm, vineyards and olive orchard output, according to Eretz Gshur marketing manager Ehud Soriano.
Geshur, a small kibbutz with about 50 members, was the first in Israel to plant olive trees in high-density hedgerows and use the overhead harvester for grapes to also harvest olives, Soriano says. This significantly shortens the time from when they are picked to pressed, improving the quality of the oil.
Kibbutz Geshur is a partner in the Golan Heights Winery, providing it with Muscat Canelli, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Founded in 1984 and owned by eight kibbutzim and moshavim, it is one of the first wineries in Israel to produce high-quality kosher wine.
“We decided to do the same thing for olives that the Golan Heights Winery is doing for Israeli wine: spearhead the production of high-quality olive oil by producing high-quality varietal olive oils so that consumers can taste the difference between each type of olive,” Soriano says. “This required a complete change of attitude. When we started, people said we were crazy, but it has proven successful. In the first year we sold 15 tons of olive oil, this year we sold 80 tons.”
Today Eretz Gshur grows Souri and Barnea olives as well as six European varieties of olives and produces both varietal oils and a blend that are sold at health-food stores throughout Israel. It consistently wins top honors for its oils in national and international contests.
Eretz Gshur works to raise awareness of the culinary and health benefits of olive oil through seminars and tasting sessions. Its visitors center, which is open from Sunday to Friday, reveals the entire production process, from planting the trees to bottling the oil. The center operates year round, but the best time to visit is during the harvest season (October-November) and when the olive press is active (November-December). Tours are available in English and reservations are recommended.
Interest in high-quality varietal olive oils is not limited to agricultural areas. “People are increasingly interested in quality and health and this is true all over the country,” Birger says.
In 2007, Hilla Wenkert and her brother Nimrod Salzmann opened Olia, a shop dedicated to olive oil, in the center of Tel Aviv. Their store carries half a dozen varietal olive oils as well as several blends and a wealth of related products, from tapenade, cracked and seasoned olives, and herb blends to ceramics and even olive oil soap. The olive oils all are made from olives grown in Israel.
“The entire Mediterranean diet is based on olive oil and every household in Israel has a bottle of it, but they don’t use a lot of it,” Soriano says. “However, when you let people make a choice, they will choose what they like. Interest and awareness has risen among the Israeli public. People are slowly learning about the flavors and quality of olive oil, just like they did with wine, and there is increasing demand for high-quality varietal olive oils.”
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