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ERETZ Magazine
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Stayput Caesarea
When Herod the Great wrested
Judea from the Hasmoneans, he inherited a stagnant economy and a
need to pay his dues to the Roman emperor. One way to do that was to
create the eastern Mediterranean’s biggest free port. And so
Caesarea came into being.
Caesarea was the port from which the spices and perfumes of
Arabia made their way to Rome. Herod made sure, by force of arms,
that this lucrative trade would pass through his port. The riches he
accumulated as a result allowed him to build the Temple and other
monuments in Jerusalem and many other cities, not only in the Land
of Israel, but also beyond its borders. His munificence was known
around the Roman world.
Caesarea, Herod’s masterpiece on the Mediterranean, was abandoned in
the eighth century. It later became a Crusader town, only to be
abandoned again once the Crusaders were defeated.
In the 1920s, the large swamps that had developed around Caesarea,
due to the clogging up of the Roman hydrological systems, were
drained and the fertile lands of the central coastal plain were
again cultivated.
Today Caesarea is emerging from under the shovels of the excavators
and renovators. The marvels of Herod’s city can be seen again. And,
as in times of old, its location in the center of the country makes
it a good jumping off point for visiting the whole county. Herod,
master builder that he was, chose his site well.
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Dining
Helena, the gourmet restaurant overlooking the sea in the
Caesarea Port, is the joint initiative of two of Israel’s leading
chefs. Helena’s Mediterranean menu features mainly fish and seafood.
Try the rich bouillabaisse or the fillet of fish that is served on a
bed of gnocchi with cream sauce, mushrooms, and spinach (Caesarea
Port, Tel. (04) 610-1018, not kosher). Not far from Helena is the
Port Café, which offers an amazing view in addition to great food.
The cafe specializes in rich breakfasts that include omelets and egg
dishes, salads, and freshly baked bread. Don’t miss the shakshouka –
a sizzling dish of eggs poached in a spicy tomato and pepper sauce.
(Caesarea Port, Tel. (04) 610-0221, not kosher).
One of the best surprises to be found in Caesarea is an excellent
sushi bar that has attracted a following from all over the region.
The Minato sushi bar serves a tasty selection of sushi and Japanese
soups (Paz gas station, Tel. (04) 626-2092, kosher).
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Caesarea Shopping
In addition to excellent restaurants and a great view, the
Caesarea Port is a wonderful place to go shopping.
First of all, don’t miss Eran Graveler’s shop, Beit Hasivivonim. An
artist who works mainly in ceramics, Graveler creates Judaica items
such as Hanukka lamps, candlesticks, and decorative items. However,
his favorite items are sivivonim, the tops that are spun on Hanukka,
and he has designed over 300 different ones – some are humorous,
others bear blessings, and all of them will make you smile (Tel.
(04) 626-1144).
Another place worth a visit is G.R.A.S., which carries original
Israeli art, including Judaica and decorative items for the home, as
well as a large collection of the latest fashions in Israeli jewelry
(Tel. (04) 636-0660).
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Itinerary
Day 1: Caesarea
Leave the hotel, turning right from its driveway. At the
roundabout, turn right and follow the road to its end, turn right on
Route 4, and drive to the turnoff to Kibbutz Ma’agan Michael. Drive
towards Ma’agan Michael and visit the Nahal Taninim Nature Reserve.
Return to Route 4 and continue north to the turnoff to Dor. Drive to
the Dor beach. Visit the museum at Kibbutz Nachsholim and spend time
on the most beautiful Mediterranean beach in Israel. Return to the
hotel and in the afternoon drive to Caesarea to visit Herod’s city.
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Day 2: Haifa and Carmel
Drive north on Route 4 to Haifa. Explore the German colony and
visit the Bahai Temple. Drive up the Carmel and continue along
Route 672 to the Druze village of Daliyat el Carmel. Explore the
market at Daliyat el Carmel. On leaving the village, turn left at
the first junction and drive to the parking lot of the Mukhraka
monastery. Walk up to the monastery for a view of the Jezreel
Valley. Return to Route 672 and continue to the Eliakim Junction.
Take Route 70 to the west and at the junction to Zichron Ya’acov
take the road left up to the old Jewish settlement. Visit the
winery, the synagogue, and the little shops set up along the
pedestrian mall. Return to hotel via Route 4.
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Day 3: Sea of Galilee
Take Route 65 to Megiddo Junction. Turn left at the junction and
drive to Tel Megiddo National Park. Return to Route 65 and continue
to Afula. Take Route 60 to Nazereth. Explore the old city and
marketplace and visit the Basilica of the Annunciation. Stop for
lunch. Take Route 754 to Route 77, which leads to Tiberias. Drive
along the shore road to the turnoff to Kvutzat Kinneret. Drive up
the road to the Yardenit Baptismal Site. Return to the main road and
continue to the entrance to Kibbutz Deganiya Aleph. Visit the
Deganiya Courtyard, the site of the first kibbutz ever founded.
Return to the main road and continue to the Zemah Junction. Drive
south along Route 90 to Kibbutz Sha’ar Hagolan for a visit to the
museum of prehistory. Drive along Route 92 to Kibbutz Ein Gev. Stop
at the kibbutz for a visit to the anchor’s museum and a snack.
Continue north along the shore road to Kursi and visit the Site of
the Gerasene Demoniac. Turn left on to Route 87 and visit Capernaum
and Tabgha. Take 90 north and drive up to the Mount of Beatitudes.
Continue north on Route 90 to Amiad Junction. Take Route 85 to Route
65, which leads to Caesarea.
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Day 4: Western Galilee
Take Route 4 to Acre. Explore the old Crusader town. Continue to
Kibbutz Lohamei Hagetaot and visit the Ghetto Fighters’ Museum.
Continue north to the sea grottos at Rosh Hanikra. Return along
Route 4, stopping at Achziv for a swim in the Mediterranean
(May-November).
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Day 5: Jerusalem
Take Route 2 south, take 20 to 1 and follow it to Jerusalem.
Enter the Old City via the Jaffa Gate and visit the Tower of David
Museum. Then walk down David Street, the main souvenir market. Turn
left onto Christian Quarter Street and walk to the alley of Saint
Helena that leads down to the Holy Sepulcher. Exit by the small
entrance to the courtyard that leads to the Muristan Market. Walk
straight ahead until you reach the busy market street of Khan e-Zeit.
Turn right and walk down the ancient Crusader markets. Once out of
the market, turn left on David Street and make your way round the
corner to Sisileh Street. Walk down to the Kotel. After visiting the
Kotel, take the Rabbi Yehudah Halevi steps up to the Jewish Quarter.
Walk to the Zion Gate, walk out the gate, turn right, and walk along
the outside of the wall, back to the Jaffa Gate.
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Day 6: Tel Aviv
Take Route 2 to Tel Aviv. Explore Jaffa. Taste historic Tel Aviv
by strolling through Neve Tzedek and Rothschild Boulevard. Take a
lunch break on Sheinkin Street and then check out the shops along
Dizengoff. End the day with dinner at Ibn Gabirol Street.
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Dan Caesarea
The Dan Caesarea is a full-service resort that is convenient to
most parts of central and northern Israel. Despite its central
location, the pressures of everyday life do not penetrate the Dan
Caesarea’s luxurious 15 acres of beautiful gardens, swimming pools,
and sports facilities. Even though it covers a large area, the hotel
only has 114 rooms, all of which can comfortably accommodate four
people and more than half of which are deluxe rooms or suites.
Several rooms are specially equipped to accommodate the disabled.
All of the rooms have balconies and many have a sea view, while each
of the three luxurious suites has its own jacuzzi.
There is plenty to do at the Dan Caesarea, between the sports
facilities and playground, luxurious spa, and entertainment program
for children and adults featuring musicians, clowns, and magicians.
The hotel organizes tournaments for the guests on its tennis, soccer
and basketball courts and in the swimming pool, as well as miniature
golf competitions for children. The sports facilities here meet the
highest professional standards; in the winter, foreign soccer teams
often come here for a few weeks to train.
The Dan Caesarea’s extensive grounds and tasteful design create
the atmosphere of an isolated country estate, however, it actually
is very close to many attractions. The 18-hole Caesarea Golf Club is
just down the street and offers a discount to Dan Caesarea guests.
The nearby Dani-Hi center caters to the more adventurous with
paintball, rappelling, horseback riding, archery, a shooting range,
and more. The Caesarea National Park is an archaeological park with
ancient temples, theaters, and buildings, a well-tended beach, and a
lovely port, complete with restaurants, art galleries and studios.
The Dan Caesarea is also the perfect base for excursions to the
picturesque town of Zichron Ya’acov, with its art galleries, unique
shops, wineries, gourmet restaurants, and museum.
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