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ERETZ Magazine
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Stayput Tel Aviv
Next year Tel Aviv will celebrate its 100th anniversary. With an
energetic mayor, a bustling high-tech industry, and a booming
financial sector, the funds flowing into the first Hebrew city are
giving Israeli art and culture a boost that they have never had
before.
Tel Aviv is blossoming. A city
that has always attracted the single and the young, today Tel Aviv
is a magnet for wealthy retirees, who flock to the high-rise
apartment buildings as fast as they can be built. Liberal and
relaxed, this is where the annual gay pride parade can be held
without ultra-Orthodox demonstrations and where the Belz Hasidim
live next door to bohemians. It is a city full of
restaurants and shops that offer a combination of international
trends and unique local flavors. A city that is young at heart as
well as young in history compared to age-old Jerusalem, Tel Aviv is
a year away from celebrating its centennial.
Urban development in Tel Aviv has always been rapid. However, in the
last decade, the city is finally beginning to face the sea. The port
area has received a facelift, becoming a center of activity and fun. Joggers fill the huge wooden deck opposite the sea, while the pubs
and clubs are the center of activity at night. Along the beach, the
promenade between the Tel Aviv and Jaffa ports has been completed
and work to expand it both north and south is progressing. Dizengoff
Street is going through a revival, symbolizing what is happening in
many of the other shopping boulevards of the city. Dizengoff Street
has become Tel Aviv’s fashion showcase.
Tel Aviv is nearly devoid of archaeological sites, but it was here
that the State of Israel came into being. Tel Aviv abounds with
museums that tell the story of the creation of Israel. They stand
side by side with the dream houses of the founders of the city, the
international-style buildings of the 1930s and 1940s, markets,
coffee shops, bars, and trendy stores. Many of these are not in
malls, but along the streets, each of which has its own special
style and flavor.
Parking is a major problem in Tel Aviv, but it’s only a short walk
from one point to another. Wandering around Tel Aviv is a dynamic
experience of multicultural action that seems to never stop.
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The Real Jaffe
Few tourists make it to the Ajami
neighborhood, which used to be the home of Jaffa’s elite. They
settled along today’s Hazedef Street, in the northern part of Ajami,
living in huge mansions surrounded by small orchards and gardens.
Today the mansions are being renovated, many by architect Ilan Pivko,
and are home to some of Tel Aviv’s wealthier residents.
The southern part of Ajami is a sad story of neglect. Drug-related
crimes
 and poverty are rampant among the 30,000 Arabs who live here.
But the potential and the beauty of Jaffa remain and it is worth
taking a stroll along Kedem Street, which runs along the sea. (The
only crime that a visitor might encounter is having his or her car
broken into.) To get to Ajami, take the southern exit from the Jaffa
Port and walk up the steps leading to Hazedef Street. At the bottom
of the street is the Ali Caravan Hummus restaurant (1 Dolfin
Street), one of the most famous hummus joints in Israel. The small
hole-in-the-wall restaurant is open every day until the hummus runs
out – about noon, so go early. At 41 Kedem Street is a small Nargila
club, complete with waterpipes and tea, and in the small bakery at
44 Kedem Street, Lebanese-style pita can be bought. Good local kebab
can be had at Salim’s Place (52 Ibn Sina Street).
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Shopping
in Tel Aviv
Of all the fashion boutiques in
Tel Aviv, Comme il Faut is the only one that combines the latest
fashions with ideology. Its stylish clothing is designed for real
women of all sizes who do not want to submit to the images that
society forces upon them. In addition to its feminist agenda, the
chain makes an effort to advance various social issues and to
produce its clothes in facilities in Israel with fair work
conditions. The carefully decorated store in the Tel Aviv Port also
sells items by designers from around the world, jewelry, and shoes
(Hangar 26, Tel. (03) 604-1025).
For unique Judaica, it is worth visiting the gallery of artist Frank
Meisler in Old Jaffa. He creates sculptures and Judaica from bronze,
silver, and gold that radiate humor, originality, and a love of life
(25 Mazal Arie Alley, Old Jaffa, Tel. (03) 681-3502).
Finally, don’t miss Dori Changri’s breathtaking boutique. This
talented designer offers an array of purses, wallets, and jewelry
with a wonderfully distinctive style. It is hard to say whether the
style is bohemian chic or ancient royalty, but in any case, any item
from her store can make any look unforgettable (242 Dizengoff
Street, Tel. (03) 604-3273.
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Dining in Tel Aviv
Tel Aviv offers an abundance of
excellent restaurants and culinary trends sweep through the city at
a dizzying pace. One of the more successful trends is kosher gourmet
cuisine. The Lilith restaurant was perhaps one of the first heralds
of this trend. Lilith has a Mediterranean menu with dishes such as
glazed liver in silan (date honey) with peanut, orange, and
coriander salad (Asia House, 2 Dafna Street, Tel. (03) 609-1331).
The Deca restaurant takes the kosher trend a step further, serving
up gourmet Israeli cuisine with French influences. Talented chef
Chaim Cohen created a menu that includes excellent fish dishes, such
as sea bass on a bed of quinoa ragout with beet salad with scallion
dressing and yellowtail sashimi served with steamed zucchini,
yogurt, mint, and olive oil (10 Hata’asia Street, Tel. (03)
562-9900, kosher).
The most sizzling restaurant in Tel Aviv these days is not part of
the kosher trend, but the herald of a new one – excellent gourmet
food in a casual atmosphere. Chef Jonathan Roshfeld presides over
the kitchen of Herbert Samuel, creating a not-to-be-missed culinary
experience (6 Kaufman Street, Tel. (03) 516-6516, not kosher).
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Dizengoff Street
Today Dizengoff is a fashion
empire, where clothes can be found for every taste and every age.
Dizengoff Center was the first shopping mall in Israel. It is
divided in two, running down both sides of Dizengoff Street.
Dizengoff Circle is named after Meir Dizengoff’s wife Zina. The
northeastern corner of the square is the site of the Cinema Hotel (1
Zamenhoff Street), formerly the Ester Cinema, with 1,000 seats and a
European aura. At number 6 Zina Square, you will find the antique
shop, Glory, where everything can be found. Dizengoff 99 is the
Bauhaus center with changing exhibitions. There are many designers
along Dizengoff Street. Ilana Efrati (number 266) specializes in the
tailored look. Ronen Chen (155) is a member of the younger
generation of designers. Lulu Liam’s store, Banot, is at number 212.
Gertrude Fashion (number 225) is the place for lingerie. Haya Nir
(number 173) sells evening clothes; Yosef Peretz specializes in
evening gowns (number 213). Keren and Tomer Banker are at number
210. Other notable stores are Maschio for men’s shoes (number 190),
Shufra for women’s shoes (number 108), and Boutique Kala (number
218) for wedding gowns.
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Bialik
Street
Start at 2 Bialik Street, a
beautiful 1932 building home to Café Bialik. Bialik Street was a
cultural and political center in the early days of the Hebrew state.
Hayyim Nahman Bialik, the national poet, lived on the street named
in his honor. Bialik’s house (number 22) is built in the eclectic
style prevalent in 1924. The Felicia Blumenthal music center (number
26) is located on the site of the Shenkar family’s house. The former
Tel Aviv city
hall stands at the end of the street, overlooking Bialik Square. In the center of the square is a mosaic by Gutman
telling the 4,000-year history of Jaffa and Tel Aviv. Painter Reuven
Rubin’s house (number 14) serves as a museum of his works. Take the
steps down to Tchernichovsky Street. From here it is a short
distance to the Bezalel Market, a classic discount clothing market.
The venerable porcelain shop at the corner of Tchernichovsky is
still open for business; nearby are a secondhand bookstore (number
36) and a comic book store (number 40). Don’t forget to stop at
Pollak’s antique map store (number 42). On an alley leading off King
George Street, Simta Almonit, is the coffee shop Sonia Getzl Shapira
with its quaint garden and great cakes.
(photo: Tagist Ron)
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Itinerary
Day 1: The Beauty of Jaffa
Start at the clock tower plaza,
the heart of Ottoman Jaffa. Walk up Mifratz Shlomo Street to Kedumim
Square and the grand Franciscan church of St. Peter. Walk through
the artists’ colony to the port. Walk back along Yefet Street to the
flea market around Beit Eshel Street. At 3 Beit Eshel Street, you’ll
find the Dr. Shakshouka Restaurant with Tripolitan food. Pua (8
Rabbi Yohanan Street) is also an interesting restaurant.
(photo: Tagist Ron)
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Day 2: Historic Tel Aviv
Start at the northern end of Herzl
Street. On the corner of Ahad Ha’am Street stands Akiva Arieh Weiss’
house, the first building in Tel Aviv. Across the street stands the
now-dilapidated Shalom Tower, the first high-rise in the city. Walk
to Nahalat Benjamin, a neighborhood built in 1911. The 1920s houses
along the street, with their “Hebrew” motives are a great backdrop
for the art and craft fair, which is held here on Tuesdays and
Fridays. The favorite haunts of old-timers, like Café Birnbaum and
the Robinson antique bookstore, are always worth a visit. Stroll
down Allenby Street and look at the houses decorated with the famous
Bezalel mosaic panels. Allenby also sports a lot of second-hand
stores, cheap clothing outlets, and more. Rothschild Boulevard
connects the historic center of Tel Aviv to the old cultural center
at Habimah Theater. Strolling along Rothschild, the building styles
gradually progress from fantasy dream houses of the 1920s, to the
early Israeli style of the 1950s.
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Day 3: Neve Tzedek
The 120-year-old Neve Tzedek
quarter has become a popular address for the upscale Tel Avivian.
Rokach House (36 Rokach Street) was the most elaborate of the
neighborhood’s buildings. The building houses a period museum. The
Nachum Gutman Museum of Art (39 Neve Tzedek Street) presents the
works of Gutman, a Tel Aviv artist. Shabazi Street, the
neighborhood’s main street, is full of small stores and restaurants.
The street leads to the Suzanne Dellal center, home of the Batsheva
Dance Company. Not far from here is Lillenblum Street, with its
lively bar scene.
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Day 4: Jerusalem
Start at the Tower of David Museum
on the history of Jerusalem, at the Jaffa Gate. Walk down David
Street. Turn left onto Christian Quarter Street and walk to the
alley of Saint Helena that leads down to the Holy Sepulcher. Tour
the churches around the Tomb of Jesus. Exit by the small doorway to
the Muristan Market. Walk to the market street of Khan e-Zeit. Turn
right and walk down the ancient Crusader markets. (The central one
has less freshly butchered meat hanging on hooks.) Turn left on
David Street and make your way round the corner to Sisileh Street.
Walk down the street to the street turning to the Kotel. Take the
Rabbi Yehudah Halevi steps up to the Jewish Quarter. Make your way
through the quarter to Zion Gate, walk out the gate, turn right, and
walk back to the Jaffa Gate.
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Day 5: Along the Coast
Take Route 2 to Haifa. On the way,
drop in on ancient Caesarea. In Haifa, visit the Bahai center and
the German Colony. Continue north to Acre for a visit to the Old
City and to Rosh Hanikra for a visit to the Sea Grottos. On the way
back, stop off at Zichron Ya’acov. Chocolate cake at the restaurant
in the pink house is a must.
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Day 6: To the Negev
Take Route 4 to Yad Mordechai.
Take Route 34 to Route 232, go left on Route 25 and right on Route
232. Take Route 222 to Route 40 and drive to Midreshet Sde Boker to
visit Ben-Gurion’s grave. Continue to the ancient Nabatean city of
Avdat and Mitzpe Ramon. At the traffic circle at the entrance to
Mitzpe Ramon, go left on the dirt road to the Sculpture Park. Return
to Mitzpe Ramon and drive through it to Camel Hill to watch the sun
set over the Ramon Crater. Stop at the restaurant at the visitors’
center and drive back to Tel Aviv.
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Hotels in the Big City
Images of broad beaches and
shimmering blue water, a deluxe hotel with a complete menu of
services, a pampering massage or beauty treatment at a luxurious
spa, gourmet meals, and sports and activities that are fun for the
entire
family feature prominently in most people’s vacation plans. The Dan
hotels in Tel Aviv offer all that and more. The Dan Tel Aviv is one
of the few hotels in Israel that is a member of the organization
known as the Leading Hotels of the World, which regularly conducts
anonymous inspections to confirm that members meet all of the 1,500
requirements of an excellent hotel. The Dan Panorama Tel Aviv is the
city’s only resort hotel. It offers all of the comforts of a resort
in a large, luxurious hotel that is only a short stroll from the
most enchanting parts of the City of Tel Aviv-Jaffa.
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Attractions near the Dan Hotels
The Dan Panorama Tel Aviv offers
easy access to the charms of Old Jaffa – the artists’ quarter, the
flea market, the port, and the small, colorful streets that are a
pleasure to wander through. Heading in the other direction, one can
explore the roots of Tel Aviv in Neve Tzedek, the museums on
Rothschild Boulevard that relate the history of Israel and Tel Aviv,
and the fantastic Bauhaus architecture that has earned Tel Aviv the
name “the White City.”
Modern Tel Aviv is nearby as well in the form of the Nahalat
Binyamin craft fair, the Suzanne Dellal performing arts center, and
the promenade extending the entire length of the Tel Aviv beach,
situated directly across the street from the hotel. Two
 of
Tel Aviv’s most popular beaches are also right across the street,
and the hotel’s outdoor pool is the largest in the city.
The Dan Tel Aviv’s location, about a kilometer north of the Dan
Panorama Tel Aviv, also is enviable. Not only is the hotel minutes
from both Israel’s main business district and the sea, but it also
is just a short walk from the art galleries on Gordon Street, the
fashionable clothing shops on Dizengoff Street, and the headquarters
of many of Israel’s leading companies.
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