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ERETZ Magazine
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Stayput Upper
Galilee
The Upper Galilee is a land of
lush fields, springs, and rivers at the crossroads of four climatic
and vegetational zones. It abounds with wildlife, from millions of
birds to foxes and wolves, and it abounds with flora, from the
world’s northernmost papyrus to ancient oaks.
Every winter, the Hula Lake once expanded to cover the whole Hula
Valley. It was a wonderful world of wildlife and flora at a unique
place on the globe: The meeting place of four different climatic and
vegetational zones. The northernmost papyrus bushes grew here and
the southernmost plane trees. Desert wolves from the dry steppes of
the Syrian plateau hunted sleek deer from the Mediterranean
littoral. In the 1950s, the swamp was drained, leading to the demise
of this unique wetland. Since then, attempts have been made to
recreate the wetlands of the Hula Valley. Today the Hula Valley is
again a place of beauty with abundant waters, streams, and springs,
remnants of huge oak forests, lush fields, thousands of waterfowl,
and millions of raptors and songbirds that fly over this lush valley
every spring and autumn.
The valley is circled by the Mountains of Naftali on the western
side and the Golan Heights on the east. The snow-capped Mount Hermon
overlooks the valley from the north.
Man has been drawn to this valley from the dawn of prehistory. In
the mountains around it, ancient hunters and gatherers first
discovered the qualities of Emmer wheat, which would make the green
revolution of agriculture possible. The great city of Hazor became a
world trade center four thousand years ago and in ancient Dan a
temple was set up by the kings of Israel to mark the borders of
their kingdom. Crusaders fought over this valley, as did the
Assassin sect, Ottomans, French and British, Syrians, Lebanese and
Israelis. The Hula Valley and the Upper Galilee are one of the most
sought-after holiday destinations in Israel. Peaceful, relaxing, and
above all a place of natural beauty.
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Mighty Hazor
Tel Hazor is one of the biggest biblical mounds in Israel. It is
mentioned in the Egyptian execration texts in the eighteenth century
BCE as a major city in Canaan. In the Book of Joshua, Hazor is
called the “head of all the kingdoms.” The Bible specifically
mentions that Hazor was destroyed by Joshua. There are many academic
disputes over the identification of Hazor as the city destroyed by
Joshua.
The site was first excavated by British archaeologist John Garstang
in 1928. Among his discoveries was a strange colonnaded structure
that has been identified as stables, a palace, and a royal granary –
depending on the researcher. In 1955, Yigael Yadin put together the
largest archaeological excavation that had been formed thus far in
Israel, to excavate Hazor. Many of those who would later become
Israel's leading archaeologists worked with Yadin on this
excavation. Yadin discovered that Hazor was made up of two areas: an
upper city, which was where Garstang had excavated; and a huge lower
city, which contained buildings, temples, walls, and a massive
retaining structure. In the upper city, Yadin discovered an
elaborate water system, the city’s gates from the biblical period,
and more. The most interesting find was the temple of lions, which
had been completely burnt and destroyed by an invading force. Yadin
claimed this temple was proof that this was the city Joshua had
destroyed.
In recent years, excavations have continued, exposing a wonderful
Canaanite palace that has been rehabilitated.
At present the most exciting archaeological search is for the city’s
archive. We know there was one because letters from Hazor have been
discovered in palaces and ancient archives in Iraq and Syria. There
is an archive and one day its thousands of tablets will be
unearthed.
Hazor is a difficult place to understand as most of the city has not
been excavated yet. But the palace, the water system the
four-thousand-year-old houses, and defenses are of great interest.
Nearby, at Kibbutz Ayelet Hashahar, is the Hazor Museum, which
displays finds from the excavations.
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Sources of the Jordan River
The three rivers that are the sources of the Jordan River meet in
the northern part of the Hula Valley.
Nahal Dan emanates from a spring inside the Dan Nature Reserve. The
area around the spring is today a lush wood of oak, oleander, and
plane trees intertwined with bushes and a thick growth of
vegetation. Above the spring is the ancient tell of Dan. Mentioned
many times in the Bible, this city was settled thousands of years
before the tribe of Dan ever made it into their home.
Nahal Hermon, the Banias, is the easternmost source of the Jordan.
The head of the river is a dramatic spring that emerges from the
foot of a cliff at the bottom of Mount Hermon. Originally, the
spring welled up in a large cavern in the cliff known in Greek times
as the cave of Pan (the source of the Arabic name of the river:
Panias i.e. Banias).
The third source of the Jordan is the Snir River. Its source is way
up in the mountains of Lebanon, an area that has been sacred to the
Druze since the founder of the sect fled to this area in the tenth
century. Each one of the sources of the Jordan is different and
exploring them is one of the highlights of a stay in Galilee.
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The Manara Range
The Manara range or, as it is officially known, the Ramim
Mountain Range, towers above the Hula Valley, stretching to a height
of 800 meters. The valley side of the range ends abruptly in a
dramatic cliff, the tallest cliff in the Israel. The other side of
the range slopes gently into Lebanon. The range is full of beautiful
lookout points of the Hula Valley, the Sea of Galilee, Mount Hermon,
the Golan Heights, and Lebanon.
During autumn and spring, the cliff is a popular resting point for
hundreds of thousands of raptors, storks, pelicans, and ducks.
The northernmost point is Mount Zefiya, which looms over Metulla. A
little further south is one of the best places for a view of the
Golan and Hula Valley: the upper station of the Manara cable car.
To reach the Agamon Lookout Point, take Route 886 south until Ramot
Naftali. Opposite the moshav entrance, a sign marks the way to the
viewpoint.
Keren Naftali is a horn-like hill just south of Ramot Naftali. A
track that starts from Route 886 about half a kilometer south of
Ramot Naftali leads up to the hill, through remains of a Greek
temple. The hill is easily recognizable by the antennas perched on
its top.
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Dalton
Rabbi Yossi of Galilee was one of the most famous of the Galilean
sages. He was known as a rainmaker and a healer of barren women. The
tomb on the top of the extinct volcano of Mount Dalton has been
identified as his tomb since the Middle Ages. Travelers from this
period report that barren women used to make the pilgrimage to his
grave and would tie pieces of cloth to the trees around it.
After visiting the tomb of Rabbi Yossi, drive back to Moshav Dalton,
turn left, and follow the road along the fence to an opening leading
out towards the cemetery of Dalton. After 300 meters, you will see
on your left the tomb of Ishmael Ben Yossi. Since the Middle Ages it
has been considered a wonderful example of a Galilean holy tomb,
complete with a tree, surrounding wall, and sign. A little further
down the road on the right is the path leading to the tomb of Raba
Bar Hona, another favorite pilgrimage site in the area. Finally, if
you have the stamina, follow the road to its end in an orchard and
then take the black-marked path that will lead to the grave of
Yehuda Ben Tima on the top of Mount Hazor, where there is a great
view of the Hula Valley and the Biriya forest.
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Where to Eat
Beit Hashalom, which the Hod family operates, includes both guest
suites and a vegetarian restaurant that serves food made almost
entirely from ingredients that come from the family farm (28
Harishonim Street, Metulla, Tel. (04) 694-0767, food is kosher, but
the restaurant does not have a certificate because it is open on
Shabbat.)
A cowshed that once was used as a training camp for pre-state Jewish
defense organizations was thoroughly renovated recently and is now
the home of the 1922 restaurant. Chef Oded Shoval has put together a
menu that is based mainly on meat accompanied by sophisticated first
courses. The restaurant is located in the heart of the "chicken coop
path," which has become the kibbutz’s main recreational area; today
it is full not of chickens but of small stores selling art, food,
and wine produced in the Galilee (Kibbutz Kfar Giladi, Tel. (04)
694-6646, not kosher).
Nahalim is a gourmet restaurant located on the banks of the Hatzbani
River and is the ideal place for a romantic meal for two. The menu
is varied, with many excellent seafood and fish dishes (Gan Hatzafon,
Tel. (04) 690-4875, not kosher).
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Itinerary
Day 1: The Galilee Panhandle
Take Route 90 north to Kiryat Shemona. Take 99 to the turnoff to
the Dan Nature Reserve. Walk along the water route and follow the
path through the trees to the “high place at Dan” – the famous altar
that delineated the borders of Israel. Drive back to Kiryat Shemona
and take Route 90 to the south. A kilometer and a half after the
Koah Junction, turn left on to the road leading to the Hula Agamon.
This is an attempt to revive the Hula swamp that was drained in the
1950s. The swamp isn’t back yet, but the wildlife is – including
water fowl in the hundreds of thousands. Continue south to Rosh Pina
and end the day with a walk through the old village and a stop at
one of the many coffee houses or restaurants.
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Day 2: Kabbalah and Sages
Begin in Safed with an orientation seminar on Jewish mysticism.
Visit the medieval synagogues of Safed and tour the Hassidic
yeshivas in the old city. Tour the ancient cemetery of Safed, where
holy men, rabbis, and mystics are buried. After lunch, take the
road to Biriya and continue to the Biriya forest. Follow the signs
to the grave of Raban Yonatan ben Uziel, a famous second-century
mystic whose grave is a magnet for shiduch seekers. Take the road
back to the Bat Ya’ar ranch for dinner.
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Day 3: The Western Galilee
Take Route 89 to the Meron Junction. Continue on Route 89 by
turning right at the junction to the approach road to Mount Meron.
Drive up to the summit and take the summit path around the mountain
(a 40-minute walk) to enjoy views of the Galilee, Golan, and
Lebanon. Return to Route 89 and continue through the Druze village
of Hurfeish to Ma’alot and Nahariya on the coast. Take Route 4 north
to the grottos of Rosh Hanikra. Then double back to Achziv for a
swim (May to November). Drive down to Acre to explore the old
Crusader town.
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Day 4: The Sea of Galilee
Take Route 90 to Tiberias. Stop at the Hamat synagogue just south
of the town. Continue on 90 to Deganiya and tour the Deganiya
Courtyard, where the first kibbutz was founded. Drive to Sha’ar
Hagolan to visit the unique museum on prehistory. Drive to Ein Gev
for lunch. Continue north on Route 92
past Kursi, where a Byzantine church was found commemorating the
healing of the Gerasene demoniac. Take Route 87 west. Cross the
Jordan River. On the other side are the important Christian sites of
Capernaum, Tabgha, and the Mount of Beatitudes. Stop off at
Capernaum to view the ancient synagogue and at Tabgha to see the
mosaic. Take Route 90 to the north. At the Corazim Junction, turn
off to reach the Vered Hagalil ranch, which serves the best pancakes
and maple syrup in Israel.
(photo: Doron Horowitz)
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Day 5: Jerusalem
Start at the Tower of David Museum on the history of Jerusalem,
by the Jaffa Gate. Walk down David Street. Turn left onto Christian
Quarter Street and walk to the alley of Saint Helena that leads down
to the Holy Sepulcher. Tour the churches around the Tomb of Jesus.
Exit by the small doorway to the Muristan Market. Walk to the market
street of Khan e-Zeit. Turn right and walk down the ancient Crusader
markets. (The central one has less freshly butchered meat on
display.) Turn left on David Street and make your way round the
corner to Sisileh Street. Walk down the street to the street turning
to the Kotel. After visiting the Kotel, take the Rabbi Yehudah
Halevi steps up to the Jewish Quarter. Make your way to Zion Gate,
walk out the gate, turn right, and walk back to the Jaffa Gate
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Day 6: Tel Aviv
Start in the south by exploring Jaffa’s flea market. Then take a
taste of historic Tel Aviv by strolling through Neve Tzedek,
Rothschild Boulevard, and the surrounding streets. Take a lunch
break at one of the many cafes on Sheinkin Street and then check out
the shops there and along Dizengoff Street. End the day with dinner
on Ibn Gabirol Street.
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Bayit Bagalil
Bayit Bagalil is a stylish, exclusive boutique hotel that is
located in the heart of the Biriya Forest, between Safed and Amuka.
The hotel, which is built of Jerusalem stone and extends over some
eight acres, was established in 2002 by businessman Richard Cohen,
who aspires to establish a chain of boutique hotels in Israel that
will indulge their guests in a generous and tranquil Mediterranean
atmosphere. And indeed, the furnishings and decorative items that
were collected from all over the world create a distinctly indulgent
atmosphere with a pastoral touch and a warm, homey feel. The 26
suites all have an amazing view of the Galilee landscape. The
presidential suite also has a large terrace, king-size bed, private jacuzzi,
and more. A variety of health and beauty treatments, from facials to
massages, are offered in the beautiful, well-equipped spa, whose
facilities include a fitness center, sauna, and lounging and reading
areas. Bayit Bagalil also has a wine cellar, a bar, and a
restaurant, which serves homemade delicacies, gourmet dishes, and
Galilean wine. The surrounding forest is also worth exploring,
either on foot or on a bicycle borrowed from the hotel for no extra
charge.
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